[Readers of Rick On Theater will know that I have an interest in the visual arts. I’ve posted many articles, both by me and by others, including a number from published sources, on art from one perspective or another. I’m often fascinated by innovative and experimental art, work that’s groundbreaking and daring—even if I don’t always like the results. Just as I am with theater, I’m taken with artists who devise new ways to express themselves with new media or new techniques.
[Recently, I read two pieces in the New York Times’ monthly style magazine, T, about artists working with materials that are, not unique, but also not mainstream. One works with cloth and thread, though he’s not a tapestry artist or a needlepointer. The other’s a sculptor who work with lighted tubes of neon. I say “works with” and not “works in” because he incorporates the neon tubes in his sculptures with other elements—though the tubes and the light they emit are the most dynamic components of the sculpture.
[In both cases, I hope, you’ll see what got my attention—and piqued my imagination. Maybe these artists and their work will intrigue you a little, too.]
“Out of Whole
Cloth”
by Siddhartha Mitter
[The article below was published in T: The New York Times Style Magazine on 27 September 2026. It was posted to the paper’s website as “What Happens When a Painter Abandons Paint?” on 10 September 2026.]
Eric N. Mack has created a singular style of painting by forgoing paint altogether and using fabric instead.
The artist Eric N. Mack [b. 1987], known for his abstract fabric assemblages, works in a simple studio in an office building turned creative hub in Manhattan’s financial district. When I visited in early June, I found the room packed with textiles — piles of colorful remnants, gauzy lengths unrolled on the floor and racks of clothing, some of Mack’s own design. A heavy-duty Singer sewing machine held the center of a cluttered worktable. Out the window, we could see the South Street Seaport at a distance, the ship sails echoing Mack’s fabrics.
Mack, 39, identifies as a painter — and trained as one in art school at Cooper Union, and later at Yale. Back then, he was already challenging the norms of the field, painting onto unusual surfaces like blankets and drop cloths and setting them up as sculptures; for almost a decade now, he’s used fabric and thread, not paints and brushes, to make his marks. His assemblages can stretch over metal frames or hang off lines and free-standing armatures, or cascade in bright hues across, say, a museum atrium, making the space itself a sculpture of light. When we met in the studio, he was preparing his exhibition at Paula Cooper Gallery in Chelsea that opens today [You Red The Shirt Off My Back, 10 September-24 October 2026]. Pinned to the wall were works he was making, including some for the show: Each was a kind of collage, joining small segments of many different shapes and patterns and materials, stitched and layered into irregular forms.
[Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art on Cooper Square in the East Village neighborhood of Manhattan offers education in art, architecture and engineering, as well as courses in the humanities and social sciences.
[Chelsea is a neighborhood on the West Side of Manhattan. The area’s boundaries are roughly 14th Street to the south, the Hudson River to the west, 6th Avenue to the east, and 34th Street to the north. In the 1980s, the area began to attract restaurants and nightclubs and, in the ’90s. art galleries focusing on the most contemporary artists and works.]
One of a cohort of young Black artists to appear in the early 2010s with fresh ideas and cross-disciplinary tendencies, Mack received institutional recognition almost immediately, participating in an influential group show of emerging artists at the Studio Museum in Harlem in 2012 [Fore, 11 November 2012-10 March 2013]. His work was in the 2019 Whitney Biennial, and he had his first New York City solo exhibition that same year at the Brooklyn Museum [Lemme walk across the room, 11 January-4 August 2019]. He’s shown widely ever since.
[The Studio Museum is an African-American art museum in the Harlem neighborhood of Manhattan. Founded in 1968, the museum collects, preserves, and interprets art created by African Americans, members of the African diaspora, and artists from the African continent.]
His fabric works join a lineage of conceptual experiments that are based on painting while also shedding the medium, in part or in full. Among his touchstones are figures like Sam Gilliam [1933-2022; see “Picasso, Bearden, Gilliam, and Gauguin” (26 June 2011) and “Sam Gilliam (1933-2022): A Personal Tribute” (2 July 2022)], the great Black abstractionist who began draping his painted, unstretched canvases in the late 1960s; Robert Rauschenberg [1925-2008], the protean assemblage figure who made textile works in the 1970s; even [Vladimirov Javacheff] Christo [1935–2020; Bulgarian] and Jeanne-Claude [Denat de Guillebon; 1935-2009; Moroccan-born French national], with their wrapped buildings and monuments. This fall, he will also appear in “Hard Art,” an intergenerational show of 44 artists at MoMA PS1 [Long Island City, Queens; 5 November 2026-8 March 2027] that traces the legacy of Black abstract painters, including Gilliam, Mary Lovelace O’Neal [American; 1942-2026], Joe Overstreet [American; 1933-2019] and more, across many media. (And a large-scale installation by Mack is on view at the Speed Art Museum in Louisville, Ky., responding to the building’s architecture, through Nov. 29.)
But Mack finds equal inspiration in street and high fashion, and in the histories of quilting and the domestic arts. How fabric is made and traded, and with whose labor; how it is worn on the body; how it is kept or reused: All this, for him, infuses the material down to the snippet. This concentrated potential keeps Mack trawling fabric and remnant shops, visiting markets and artisans on his travels and accepting the miscellaneous batches of fabric that friends think he might want to use. It has led him to focus his practice. Where he once employed different methods — readymades, ornamentation, photo transfer, magazine-page collage — he has pared his priorities to fabric, space and form. The result is a distinctive visual language, sensitive to fabric’s social and emotional life, how a remnant can marshal a memory; how a pattern comes with a story embedded in it. Unlike paint, Mack told me, fabric can “also talk about time and fragility.” He added: “I like that about textile. It’s something that I’ve wanted painting to be able to do, which is why I’ve conceptually fused them.”
At the studio, I asked Mack to guide me through one of his works in progress. Pinned to the wall (and still untitled), the piece involved several dozen elements: a dynamic assembly of strips and squares of many colors, patterns and textures. The total work possessed the rough proportions of a dress — albeit one bizarrely confected, and then deconstructed by some centrifugal energy. Mack pointed out a rectangular section near the work’s top. It had bands of narrow stripes in shades of red, blue and green. He got it, he said, on Chongming Island, an outer district of Shanghai in China’s Yangtze River Delta, where women have woven homespun cotton for centuries.
As we continued to look over the piece, alighting on other fabric segments, it became a map of the artist’s sources. A lace section, for example: “I got this in Turin in a secondhand shop,” Mack said. An Indian-style, paisleylike print was purchased at a market in Rome, a bit of burlap at an ordinary home and garden store. A swath of linen came from Emblem Weavers, one of the surviving traditional suppliers in Ireland. “They gave me a lot of remnants that I’m still working with,” he said. And the larger rectangle, slightly frayed with loose threads hanging, in a tartan pattern anchoring the bottom of the work? “There’s a punk shop I go to in the East Village,” Mack said. “If it has a grid on it, I’ll get it. It felt like it kind of balanced everything out.”
[The East Village is a neighborhood on the East Side of Lower Manhattan. It’s roughly defined as the area east of the Bowery and Third Avenue, south of 14th Street, north of Houston Street, and west of the East River. The area has undergone many changes since the early 19th century, and today it’s a center of avant-garde and experimental culture and arts, including the visual arts, theater, music, and writing.]
A grammar was emerging, one that relied on a combination of history and intuition. The work’s energy — and also its control — dwelt in its torqued internal geometry, the way Mack positioned the patterned fabric pieces slightly off kilter. The artist often leaves deliberate gaps in his compositions that he likens to oculi or breezeways — “like the work is beginning to unmake itself,” he said. In the jagged edges, he was exposing the vulnerability of the material.
At the same time, all the reference points and different histories seem to create something familiar, a kind of connection between the work and the viewer. “People ask me if the viewers can touch the work,” he said. “And my answer is always that I think the viewers already know what it feels like. Because so many of the fabrics are so ubiquitous, you already can imagine, which ends up being a kind of sensorial overlay.”
Clothing and style are fodder for experiments that have landed along the spectrum between fashion and art. He’s collaborated in the past with the London-based streetwear designer Kiko Kostadinov [Bulgarian; b. 1989] and with Grace Wales Bonner [English; b. 1990], now the creative director of Hermès men’s wear. (When we met, Mack was dressed unassumingly in jeans and a Supreme jacket.) At one point, he was making “outfit collages,” incorporating full clothing pieces — trousers, windbreakers — into his scrap-and-remnant assemblages. Though there are fewer overt explorations of fashion in his work now than earlier in his career, the possibilities lurk. While we were looking at the patchwork piece we had analyzed on the studio wall, he said, “I think it may need to be worn.”
Mack grew up just outside of Washington, D.C., and his parents both worked at the National Gallery of Art [in Washington, D.C.] — his father in exhibition installation, with a specialty in plexiglass vitrines, and his mother in the gallery archives. The family identified so much with the museum that they chose his middle name, Nathaniel, for its alliteration with “national.”
Mack’s father also owned a clothing store, so his son would either accompany him to the museum, where he roamed the galleries and watched him clean the vitrines — “with his personal proprietary solution”— or help out at the shop. These formative experiences built his awareness of not just art and fashion but “how close they were at times,” he said. “What people were wearing on the street, how culture moved through fashion — there was this progress where I was like, ‘Oh, I’m seeing this in real time.’”
Outside was the Black D.C. of the 1990s, rhythmed by go-go music, the stubbornly regional dance genre epitomized by bands like Rare Essence, Trouble Funk and other hyperlocal acts. “It was an interesting kind of cultural specificity, and it had its own resistance,” he said. “It just had such a flavor and feeling — really Black, but also just complex.”
He’s titled works and shows after D.C. locations or bands. How these memories filter into his art is abstract. “Just as I’m preserving an old piece of fabric in the middle of these newer materials, or thinking about simultaneous contrast, there’re these moments of culture that I want to compress into the work.”
Equally in the air for Mack, who attended an arts program in high school, was the local fine-art legacy — notably the Washington Color School [see “The Washington School of Color” (21 September 2014)] painters of the 1950s and ’60s, who sought a language of color on canvas using acrylic and methods like shaping and soaking. This group, plus offshoots, included Kenneth Noland [1924-2010; see “Morris Louis” (15 February 2010) and “Picasso, Bearden, Gilliam, and Gauguin” (26 June 2011)], who cut canvases into sculpted shapes; Morris Louis [see “Morris Louis”], who poured color on large unstretched canvases; and Gilliam, as well as the great Black painter Alma Thomas [American; 1891-1978], known for the bold rhythms and patterns of her abstract paintings. All were influences on Mack, he said.
Shortly after high school, he visited a Gilliam retrospective at the Corcoran Gallery of Art [Sam Gilliam: A Retrospective (15 October 2005-22 January 2006); see “Awake and Sing!, et al.” (3 April 2017) and “Sam Gilliam (1933-2022): A Personal Tribute” (2 July 2022)], followed by one of Louis in 2007 at the Hirshhorn Museum [Morris Louis Now: An American Master Revisited (20 September 2007-6 January 2008)]. Later, he said, he realized that “these were bookends — these are saying so much, and they’re local artists who, unlike go-go, were really able to penetrate. They’re in museums all over the world.”
[The Corcoran Gallery of Art was an art museum in Washington, D.C. Founded in 1869, the Gallery closed on 28 September 2014 due to a prolonged economic shortfall. Its art school and building transferred to George Washington University and its collection was distributed to other public museums and institutions in Washington, primarily the National Gallery and the American University Museum.
[The Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden is an art museum in Washington. Opened to the public in 1974, it’s part of the Smithsonian Institution and focuses on contemporary and modern art, mainly on the post-World War II period.]
Mack has “an almost encyclopedic knowledge of all these artists and movements,” said the artist Abigail DeVille [American; b. 1981], whom he befriended at Yale. “I’ll show him a picture of a work in progress and he’ll have immediate references.” The artist Tomashi Jackson [American; b. 1980], a friend since Cooper Union who showed alongside him in the 2019 Whitney Biennial, said that anywhere Mack went, he always looked for the library. “He is a good-faith participant in art-historical lineage,” Jackson said. “As a maker, and then inside of our inherent responsibility to give it back.”
In the late winter of 2019, while Mack was preparing for the Biennial and had installations up at the Brooklyn Museum and the Serpentine gallery in London, he participated in a fourth show that is perhaps the one that most impacted him as an artist, even though its material trace has been lost. For the Desert X outdoor biennial in California, he draped billowing lengths of cloth over the plaza of an abandoned gas station just outside the town of Mecca [California], by the Salton Sea. The fashion house Missoni donated fabric. He titled the work “Halter.”
[Desert X is a site-specific, contemporary art exhibition that is held in the Coachella Valley in Southern California. The inaugural Desert X was held in 2017, and subsequent exhibitions have been held every two years. Desert X 2027 will take place from 30 October 2027 through 7 May 2028 and will mark 10 years since the inaugural exhibition.
[The Salton Sea is a shallow, landlocked, highly saline endorheic lake in Riverside and Imperial counties in Southern California.]
One month into the exhibition, the work disappeared, leaving only bits of fabric and rope, apparently burned, in circumstances that have never been resolved. Speaking at the time to ArtNews, Neville Wakefield [English curator, b. 1963], the exhibition’s artistic director, said there was little to be done: “The beauty of the piece was that it was extremely fragile, ephemeral, diaphanous work. The fact that it has succumbed to its own fragility might add to the narrative.” The loss strengthened Mack’s resolve. All his pieces since then, he told me, “come in a continuum where they’re answering for the absence of that work.”
From this perspective, the outdoor work Mack showed last year at the American Academy of Arts and Letters in Upper Manhattan was cathartic for the artist. The piece, titled “Cartouche” [2025], part of “Fishers of Men,” Mack’s solo exhibition at the academy [27 September 2025-8 February 2026], addressed the peculiar architectural setting: The mannered Beaux-Arts complex of Audubon Terrace — the grand dream of an early 20th-century philanthropist — dead-ends at the rear facades of two prewar apartment buildings more typical of Washington Heights [neighborhood in the northern part of the borough of Manhattan], with their fire escapes and water towers. Against this backdrop, Mack strung two parallel ropes and attached between them a billowing textile collage that stayed up through most of the winter. “This exposure to the elements — and being braced by the architecture — was ideal,” Mack said. From earlier New York artists, he added, he’s come around to the idea that “the city is a collaborator.”
[Audubon Terrace is a cultural complex comprising eight buildings in the Washington Heights neighborhood of Upper Manhattan. Developed for several cultural institutions between 1904 and 1930, Audubon Terrace was commissioned by Archer Milton Huntington (1870-1955; philanthropist and scholar). The complex is designated a New York City landmark and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
[The site was originally part of the estate of John James Audubon (1785-1851; French-American artist, entrepreneur, naturalist, explorer, and ornithologist), which was later developed into the Audubon Park district. The first buildings were completed in 1907 for the Hispanic Society of America and the American Numismatic Society. Additional buildings were designed for the American Academy of Arts and Letters (AAAL), the American Geographical Society (AGS), the Heye Foundation's Museum of the American Indian (MAI), and Our Lady of Esperanza Church.
[In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the AGS, ANS, and MAI moved out. (The Museum of the American Indian, now a New York satellite of the National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, is located downtown at the Alexander Hamilton U.S. Custom House at 1 Bowling Green.) Boricua College, the Hispanic Society, and AAAL took over the other three institutions’ buildings; Boricua College itself moved out during 2026.]
When I asked Mack’s old school friend DeVille about him, she’d replied with a poetic note. “I think of Eric’s work not only as an extension of the body but as an ancient technology of place making,” it read in part. “It’s carving out a space of memory, loss, whimsy, dreaming as a poem or song.”
In the studio, Mack put his aspirations differently: “I think the way that I break through is with this kind of public address. This relationship to freedom. Taking these knowable formats and introducing these worlds that I don’t see as disparate at all.”
[Siddhartha Mitter writes about art and creative communities in the United States, Africa, and elsewhere. Previously he wrote regularly for the Village Voice and the Boston Globe and he was a reporter for WNYC Public Radio.]
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“Afterglow”
by M. H. Miller
[This report was also from T: The New York Times Style Magazine of 27 September 2026. It was posted on the website on 21 September 2026 under the title “He Grew Up Without Electricity. Then He Became Obsessed With Neon Lights.”]
In the 1960s, the artist Stephen Antonakos developed a spiritual relationship with neon. Today, his preserved SoHo home and studio is a testament to the material's mysteries.
One evening in the late 1950s in New York City, the artist Stephen Antonakos [Greek-born; 1926-2013] left his West 29th Street studio and began to walk downtown toward his apartment. As the story goes, at some point during this walk he had a near-religious epiphany after seeing a restaurant’s neon sign. Neon wouldn’t have been an unfamiliar sight for Antonakos, who worked in advertising by day and at night made exuberant sculptures out of found materials like pillows or empty sardine tins. Back then, it was still a part of the urban landscape, though by the early ’70s it would begin to be replaced by more affordable and practical LED lighting. Having lived in New York since the 1930s — except for two years in the Army during World War II, when he was stationed in the Philippines — Antonakos grew up around neon icons like Radio City Music Hall and Katz’s Delicatessen. But it was as if he were seeing neon for the first time: the intensity of its color, the way its glow called attention to itself. He’d later describe the moment as finding “what I didn’t know I was looking for.”
[Katz’s Delicatessen is a Jewish deli (but not kosher) at the corner of Houston and Ludlow Streets on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. Since its founding in 1888, it has been popular among locals and tourists alike for its pastrami on rye, which is considered among New York’s best. In 2016, Zagat gave Katz’s a food rating of 4.5 out of 5, and ranked it as the number one deli in New York City.]
Neon is a natural element (number 10 on the periodic table) that was discovered by British chemists at the end of the 19th century. In 1910, the French engineer Georges Claude [1870-1960] patented sealed glass tubes that combined neon with an electric current. Claude planned to sell his invention as lamps, but their intensity proved more useful in advertising; in 1925, a Packard car dealership in Los Angeles was one of the first businesses to install a neon sign. In the 1960s, neon had a powerful influence over American contemporary art. In addition to Antonakos, artists who worked with the material included Chryssa Vardea-Mavromichali (another Greek American, who went by the mononym Chryssa [1933-2013]), Dan Flavin [American; 1933-96] and Bruce Nauman [American; b. 1941].
But few artists explored neon with a deeper affection than Antonakos, who treated it less as a material than a medium unto itself. He was the subject of numerous gallery and museum shows and made more than 55 large-scale public neon works in places ranging from the facade of a Tel Aviv power plant to a terminal at Atlanta’s Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport. Yet the greatest showcase of his art is at his home and studio on West Broadway in SoHo, where he lived and worked from 1967 until his death, at age 86, in 2013. The loft, which can be visited by appointment, has since been preserved by the artist’s second wife, Naomi Spector Antonakos [b. 1938 or ’39], now 87, who was born in Massachusetts and worked for several of the New York galleries that represented her husband. The two married in 1972, and the couple raised their daughter, Evangelia [b. 1975], now the head of the department of math and computer science at Bronx Community College, there. (Antonakos had a son from his first marriage, also named Stephen, who died in 2020.) The family slept in bedrooms scattered around the space, none of which had walls that reached the ceiling in order to maintain a continuous flow. Antonakos worked in the northwest corner of the loft, using a utilitarian drafting table and a metal desk, a section of its surface covered by a blue neon rectangle under frosted glass.
[SoHo, short for “South of Houston Street,” is a neighborhood in Lower Manhattan. Formerly home to small factories, since the 1970s, the neighborhood has been the location of many artists’ lofts and art galleries and has also been known for its variety of shops ranging from trendy upscale boutiques to national and international chain store locations. Designated by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and declared a National Historic Landmark because many of the buildings incorporate cast-iron architectural elements.]
When he moved in, the 5,000-square-foot space was raw and virtually uninhabitable. There was no kitchen or even refrigerator. The bathroom was little more than a closet with a trough. SoHo, which had only recently acquired that name, was largely undeveloped, full of abandoned manufacturing spaces with high ceilings and large windows. Antonakos’s studio evolved alongside the neighborhood, where he and his wife became social fixtures, befriending other artists, including Robert Ryman [American; 1930-2019], Sol LeWitt [American; 1928-2007] and Richard Artschwager [American; 1923-2013]. The place came together, Naomi told me during a recent visit to the studio, based on “Stephen’s instinct. It’s very subtle and it’s just him.”
Antonakos was born in a village in southern Greece with no electricity, where natural light was taken seriously. “We can’t imagine the darkness,” Naomi said of her husband’s upbringing. “If there’s no moonlight, you cannot see your hand, much less your feet.” In interviews, Antonakos recalled how he’d sometimes lie awake in the early hours before dawn, waiting for the sun to arrive.
The center of his universe was the Greek Orthodox Church. “To enter the chapel was to enter another world,” he once wrote in an artist statement. “Being inside it was like being plunged deep inside my own feelings and finding a paradise at the same time.” When he was 4, his family (he was the youngest of four sons) moved to Manhattan’s Upper East Side. Later, they lived in a Greek enclave in Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, near another Orthodox church that became vital to him. He remained very religious throughout his life: Near his worktable, he covered a small section of the wall with religious items.
Some of this iconography appeared explicitly in his work, most famously in 1965’s “The Blue Neon Cross,” a modified crucifix bisecting four differently colored neon squares. But more often his pieces display an almost primordial sense of minimalism. In one area of the studio is a scalene triangle in green neon; in another is a board painted solid white and backlit by blue neon. These suggest a rare confidence that the [art] critic David Ebony [American; b. ca. 1954] has described as a “what you see is what you get approach.” The art historian Irving Sandler [American; 1925-2018] called Antonakos “essentially a classicist in the Constructivist tradition” — his forms have no symbolism or meaning outside of themselves. Antonakos himself once explained his working method as “I place things in space.”
In the 1970s, he began designing free-standing rooms that incorporated neon pieces, but his process was always simple and straightforward, even as his neon works grew very large. He’d draw detailed, to-scale renderings of neon installations in colored pencil on brown paper. These plans would be sent to Spectrum on Broadway, a neon sign maker in Woodside, Queens, that was his chosen fabricator.
As an artist, Antonakos seemed to have little interest in the answers to big questions. What fascinated him more were the questions themselves — and materials, like neon, that sometimes seemed to elude interpretation altogether. In 1971, when he was teaching briefly in California, he wrote to friends in New York, asking them to each send him a package. He didn’t know what he’d been sent and never intended to open the packages, preserving the mystery. “I do not want to tell people how to experience art, mine or anyone else’s,” he once said. “I simply want to try to find for myself ways of putting things together visually so that the possibility for a kind of higher consciousness may occur.”
[M. H. Miller is the features director for T Magazine. He’s a prominent journalist and editor who writes extensively on contemporary art, culture, and the historical evolution of New York City’s art scenes.
[Before joining the New York Times, Miller built a robust career as a culture journalist and editor. His writing has appeared across several major literary, news, and art publications such as the New York Observer, where he served as a reporter and senior editor; ARTnews, where he worked as an editor; the Guardian; the London Review of Books; Bookforum; the Village Voice; and NPR.]