by Rich Gilbert
[Rich Gilbert is back now with his latest installment
of the e-mail reports on his and Sallie’s six-month sojourn in Madrid. They’re now about one-third of the way through
the adventure—their apartment lease is up in May—and they haven’t decided what
to do then, but they made a visit to Nuremberg, Germany, where Rich served in
the army (after I got to know him in Berlin some years earlier). This message arrived in my inbox on 15
December and as I promised, I’m posting it as soon as I can. (I’ll endeavor to keep Rich’s reports as
current as I can from now on, as long as he keeps sending them.)
[As previously, I’ve lightly edited Rich’s e-mail to
delete personal information on him and his friends and family, and I’ve inserted
bracketed side remarks where I think they’ll be helpful. (Comments in parentheses are Rich’s
own.) If you are intrigued with my
friend’s reports on this experience, be sure to follow up with visits to Sallie’s
blog, Rambling Solo, which Rich mentions and to which he
provides a link below.]
Madrid – December 15,
2014
Dear Friends and Family,
Sallie and I have now been in Madrid almost two months. She
continues to produce her blog, Rambling Solo, http://ramblingsolo.blogspot.com.es,
which describes some of our experiences from her perspective. As before, I will
separate my comments into sections, so you need only read what interests you.
Daily Life
We have settled into a general routine. Monday through
Friday, Sallie goes to a Spanish class from 9:00 to 1:00, and has a fair amount
of homework, which she is diligent about. As a consequence, I have
become the “homemaker” doing most of the laundry, shopping and preparing the
meals. We have each arranged to get decent haircuts from people who did not
speak English. Maybe three times a week, I fix a big lunch and we
have light dinner. Other times, I go downtown to meet her after
class, and we get lunch and do something. We have year passes to the
national museums, which includes the Prado [Madrid’s world-class art museum].
I also joined a nearby gym a 5 minute walk and in the
direction of our favorite bakery and mercado [market]. There is no
pool, but if I get there between 10:00 and 11:00, I have no problem getting on
an elliptical machine and most of the weight machines. Still, I was
initially surprised to see a number of well developed young men and women
working out at that time. Then I remembered that the unemployment
rate in Spain for young adults is close to 50%! Of course, some of those young
people may have night jobs, but it is a sobering reminder that Spain still has
its economic problems. (Despite the fact the President [of the Government, what
we call the Prime Minister, Mariano
Rajoy] recently announced the crisis was over.)
I still read portions of El
Pais [the national daily] every day, so my reading vocabulary is growing,
but the speaking/listening needs work. We are both still having trouble hearing
the Madrilenos when they talk. We need the practice. We have some
local bars and restaurants where the staff will talk with us, and but we
probably have to put more work into it. I will say that is some
places when they figure out we are foreigners, especially Americans,
who are trying to learn Spanish, they are often pleased and will try to work
with us.
I have reconnected with friends from 25 years ago who live
outside town, but Pamela is from Bermuda and Juan speaks good English, so that
is what we speak when together. It is the same for a local ex-pat that I
sometimes watch futbol with at one of the bars.
Legal Troubles
We had a scare which we just resolved this past week. Both
Sallie and I recall that when we got our visas, the staff at the Spanish
Embassy said we had to report to the police within 90 days to “register.” There
were no other directions. Well, that proved to be a confusing
endeavor, and no one was really able to give us advice I could
understand. I finally found out that we had to get national ID cards
from the national police; the first step was to have our fingerprints
taken. I was supposed to get an appointment on line, but when I did
so, it said there were no dates available. The 90 day visa expires
while I am back in the States, so it was important to get this fixed. I
finally reached out to an attorney with whom I had a mutual acquaintance and he
put us in touch with a local firm. It turns out we were supposed to
get the ID card within 30 days, not 90 days! We were definitely not
told that. So with the lawyer we went out to a station (in the far outskirts of
Madrid). We were prepared to show that we had at least started our
way through the bureaucratic thicket before the 30 days were up. However,
thanks to the attorney having all the documents together (and possibly because
we were elderly, middle class Americans), they processed us without an
argument. We should get the ID cards in 30 days – hopefully just
before I return to the States. It was a necessary expense, but we are both
angry that no one at the Spanish Embassy ever told us clearly what we needed to
do.
Negative Aspects
We are having a great time, but it occurred to me that I
should tell you some of the negative aspects of living in Madrid and Spain just
to give our experiences some perspective:
1. The
bureaucracy. (See above!) (I suppose our immigration bureaucracy is
even worse, though.)
2. The Spaniards are not consistent about
cleaning up after their dogs (and there are a lot of dogs.)
3. It is sometimes awkward to walk on the street
or in the Metro as the Spaniards do not automatically move to pass on the left;
but instead keep walking where they are. Also they often have their eyes on
their phones. (Apparently mobile phone theft is not a big problem on the street
or in the Metro or buses, which I suppose is a good thing.) So you have to keep
your eyes wide open when walking around.
4. The beer. We found a brewpub in
Madrid on Plaza Santa Ana, and the beer was awful. The beer from the
tap in most bars is almost always a lager, from different Spanish brewers. It
is cold with a clean taste, so I am not actually complaining about it. I have
found a place that serves Pilsner Urquell on tap; you can also sometimes find
Guinness and German beers. My expat friend has introduced me to a
pretty good dark Spanish beer which our local bar sometimes has in bottles.
Still, the wide variety of good beers we can get from American bars, and
especially the brewpubs, is lacking. Sometimes you just want a good IPA! (We
did find a good authentic Mexican restaurant though; not enough to make us
forget La Plaza [a Mexican-Salvadoran restaurant on Capital Hill, where Rich
and Sallie lived in D.C.], but good.)
5. The food wrappings, both plastic wrap and
aluminum foil, do not come with a nice metal cutting edge. You have
to try and tear them by hand or stop and use a pair of scissors.
So with the exception of the immigration bureaucracy, I
admit these are minor points really, but they are also part of life here.
Back To Germany
Sallie and I flew up to Nuremburg for four days to meet our
friends John and Nancy Y*****, whom some of you may know from the T-shirt party
[an annual event Rich used to host], who were finishing a river cruise of
Christmas markets in Germany. It was rainy some of the time, and cold all the time.
Still, the food, the drink, the architecture, and the atmosphere were quite
different from Madrid. It felt a little like I was coming back to familiar
place after having lived in Germany many years ago. [Rich did a second gig in the army after
becoming a lawyer and was a JAG officer in Nuremberg.] The most amazing
thing to me was that my German came back almost immediately. My
Spanish reading vocabulary is much greater than my German, but I did not
struggle in casual conversation there the way I do sometimes in Spanish. I
found myself thinking in German, even for the first few days back in Madrid.
(Kind of embarrassing to say “Danke Schoen” when I meant to say “Gracias.”)
The Allies bombed Nuremburg to rubble during the end of WWII
and there were pictures of it in a number of places. The Germans rebuilt the
Altstadt (old city) with a combination of old buildings, including the castle,
numerous churches, and the city wall, with modern buildings. It works and it
was fun to walk around. Outside the Altstadt, it is all pretty modern. We
stayed in a nice, clean, convenient apartment we got through AirBnB. We would
do that again.
News Of The United States
I try to look at the Washington
Post online every day to stay roughly current with news in the United
States, but it is interesting to see what is covered in El Pais and how it is covered. Given the importance of the United
States in the world, we get a fair amount of coverage of major US news. The
election was news of course, but so also was Obama’s immigration pronouncement.
The coverage of the latter was relatively favorable here. Of course, the
protests resulting from the failure of the grand juries to indict the police
officers in Ferguson and then the Staten Island made the front page, although
the pictures of the burning and looting got the most coverage, as is often the
case.
The release of the Senate “torture report” was the lead
story when it come out. That will continue to reverberate for a
while I suspect. Interestingly though, the next day the President of
Brazil [Dilma Rousseff] released a similar report about human rights abuses
during the military dictatorship. She was a torture survivor herself
and cried during the press conference. Of course, the Mexican story of the
murder of the students in Guererro is not going away either; there is much more
continuing coverage here than in the Post. This
does not make our national embarrassment any less, but, hopefully, we can say
this was aberration at a specific traumatic point in our history. I think it is
unlikely to be repeated in such a horrifying degree regardless of future events
and future administrations.
There is no coverage here of United States sports
whatsoever, so I need to go online to follow the surprising Wizards, as well as
that train wreck surrounding the Washington Football Team [i.e., the Redskins,
whose name is controversial these days].
Spanish Politics
Spanish politics are a mess. (Of course, our
system seems pretty dysfunctional too, but in different ways.) The
corruption stories just keep coming. The sister of the King [Infanta,
or Princess, Cristina , whose brother was crowned King Felipe VI just five
months ago], for heaven’s sake, was charged with corruption stemming from her
husband’s activities [Iñaki Urdangarín,
Olympic medalist for handball in 1996 and 2000]. The
prosecutor eventually dropped the criminal charges, but is asking for a 600,000-Euro
[nearly $750,000] civil fine as restitution. He is asking for 19
years for the husband! The amount of money floating around in
dozens of these cases is in the millions. Bob McDonnell [former Virginia
governor convicted of corruption in September] clearly was not thinking big
enough. Also, for those of you who have asked – I still have not been offered
one of the “tarjeta oscura” credit cards which key figures in the government
received from a bank, and which one does not have to pay back; I will let you
know if that changes. [See Rich’s comments on this “dark card” in “Dispatches
from Spain 3 & 4,” 10 December on ROT.]
Of course, this drumbeat of corruption charges is eroding
the faith in the political system for many Spaniards. The party in
power, the Popular Party (PP), is taking the biggest hit. If elections were held today, Podemos (“We can”),
would win the most seats, but not enough to form a government on its own, so
some sort of coalition is likely going to have to be put together. Podemos
is a populist party, with a charismatic leader [Pablo Iglesias], most of his circle of advisors are
academics. They have been vague about their specific policies, but
are basically left wing. They are talking about renegotiating or
defaulting on the national debt, which has the Germans in a tizzy.
Meanwhile, in the Northeast, the Catalan separatist
story keeps humming along. The latest is that Artur Mas, head of the
Catalan government, wants to call new elections and run a single slate with all
of the separatist parties represented. His thinking is that if they
win a clear majority, this would be the effective equivalent of a referendum,
as the whole slate would be committed to independence. If they win,
Mas wants to declare independence in 18 months after negotiating a separation
from Spain. Mas is having trouble lining up all of the separatist parties, some
of whom do not want to wait the 18 months. No guarantee that the Spanish
government will go along with it. Vamos a ver! (we shall see).
One aspect of the story which I found interesting as a
criminal defense attorney, concerned the response of the government to the
“consulta,” the informal referendum held last month [on 9 November]. The
national Constitutional Court ruled that it, like an earlier formal referendum
was unauthorized, but the Catalans held it anyway. At the time, the
Constitutional Court, while saying that the vote was not authorized, ignored
the national government’s request to issue a specific court order to Mas and his
government not to hold it. Well after the vote, the national chief
prosecutor and his counterpart from Cataluña [Spanish for Catalonia] met to
discuss whether to pursue criminal charges. The Catalan chief prosecutor
decided to call a meeting of his subordinates to seek their advice – an
interesting step which has no counterpart in the U.S. legal system. The
Catalan prosecutors decided that there was not enough evidence that Mas had
violated a specific order and recommended that he not be charged with
“disobedience.” While not binding, the Catalan chief prosecutor accepted the
recommendation. That left the national chief prosecutor out on a
limb, so he called his own meeting. Not surprisingly, his
prosecutors voted to charge Mas and some subordinates.
Of course, this is just what Mas wanted as it threatens to
make him a martyr for Catalan independence, thereby enhancing his stature going
into the elections. Although the chief prosecutor is not officially part
of the Justice Ministry, clearly there are politics at work. In the
end, there has to be a political resolution of this, not a criminal one. For
what it is worth, given my imperfect grasp of legal Spanish, I also think that
the Catalan prosecutors had it right. Even at the time, I noted the
significance of the refusal of the Constitutional Court to issue any orders to
Mas or the Catalan government. I think you have to have an unambiguous order to
be convicted of failing to obey it. (Ironically, we have a strikingly similar
issue in one of the cases I will argue when I come back to the States next
month.
Spanish Futbol
The “big three,” Real Madrid, Barcelona, and Atletico Madrid
are 1-2-3 in the Spanish league, and all won their groups in the European
Champions League tournament. Unfortunately, that is not the lead story any
longer. While we were in Germany, a brawl broke out between fans of Atletico
Madrid and A Coruna (in the far northwest of the country) and an A Coruna fan
was killed. This has put violence in futbol squarely in the sports pages for
weeks now. It turns out most of the clubs have fans that purport to support
violence, like the “hooligans” of British soccer. They are called “ultras”
here. In some cases, they make up only a segment of the fan club,
which is true of Atletico Madrid. El Pais described some as “ultra left” and “ultra right.” I
guess the “ultra right” are like skinheads and often express racist,
xenophobic, and homophobic views; a group of Atletico Madrid fans were caught
on camera this past week giving the fascist salute at their match in Italy. I
am not sure what the “ultra left” groups stand for; they are apparently equally
prepared to take up violence, so I am not so sure they are any better than the
“ultra right.” (No one has made this clear, but I think much of the distinction
may date back to the Spanish Civil War.)
After the death, the Spanish futbol association announced
that clubs who cannot control their fans would be held responsible, which can
result in a loss of standing points, and even possible demotion to the next
lower level. This would be a huge deal, so maybe the clubs will take
more action. There are things which can be done to reduce, if not
eliminate, the risk of violence. There are plans to install facial recognition
and fingerprint technology to keep out known trouble makers. Since apparently
being in these groups is considered a “point of honor,” many of the leaders are
not shy about making themselves known. The clubs can also close down
sections where the groups have seats, or disperse the fans. It would be like
breaking up the Barra Brava fan club of DC United (who are not violent; I’m
just giving an example). The synergy of having all the fans in one place would
be dissipated. In addition, the leagues wants to cut down on the racist,
xenophobic, and homophobic chants and songs, which add to the potential for
violence. Both Real Madrid and Barcelona have already taken this
step for some time; their international advertising revenue is too valuable to
allow a group of hooligans get caught on camera being fools.
So now that people are talking about the problem, maybe it
will get better, at least in and around the stadiums. (By comparison, 15 people
have been killed in soccer violence in Argentina this year; they even had a gun
battle between rival gangs!)
Plans
Sallie’s son David, daughter-in-law Heidi, and granddaughter
Emily, will all be here for the holidays. We may make a trip to
Avila, Segovia and Salamanca, and another trip to Barcelona for a few days, but
Sallie still wants to spend Christmas and New Year’s here in Madrid. We have
still not decided what to do in May when our lease is up, but we will be
staying in Europe, and probably Spain (although Sallie has a yearn for Italy
too.)
I will be back in D.C. for work from January 15 through
February 3; hope to see a number of you then. In the meantime, we both wish you
all happy holidays.
Rich
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