15 June 2015

Home Alone 2


[This is the second installment of three in the collection of correspondence from my father to my mother in the month he was alone in Germany while waiting for my mom to join him.  You’ll read about the swirl of activity, the preparation for the change in my family’s lifestyle plus the introduction of Dad’s new responsibilities and obligations. This section of the three-part series covers the second week of Dad’s new adventure.  (I’ve also included here the translations of the two local newspaper articles that introduced my father to the citizens of Koblenz and the Rhineland-Palatinate.).]

Wednesday, Oct. 3, 1962
My darling,

No letter from you this morning so I am a little disgruntled.  You spoiled me the last few days by providing one each day.  There was one from Doug (a carbon) which had all the warmth and charm of his personality.  I could just picture him as he was writing it.  I am sure that he is devouring his school experience at his point.

I had my first official meeting with the Oberbuergermeister this morning and of course it was very formal, proper and each of us said the required things.  He is fairly new at the job and appears to be well thought of in the city.  I am sure we will both see more of him during the next three years.

It occurs to me that this being the beginning of the month, there will be bills arriving at home.  I don’t intend that these should be paid by you out of the funds left for you.  Forward them on to me and I will pay them all.

I have taken some pictures of the house, but I’m not sure they will be very satisfactory.  There are a couple of trees in the front that tend to block the view, and in the back, the yard is so small that I couldn’t get far enough back to get a shot.  There are fences separating us from the adjoining houses, and it would have meant climbing a fence and getting into a neighbor’s flower bed—not [a] very good way of meeting them.  I still have about seven or eight exposures on the roll, and as soon as I can use these up I will have it developed and send you the pictures.

Still no word from Rick—I envy you your visit to him this coming weekend

                                                                                    G
*  *  *  *
Thursday, Oct. 4, 1962
My dearest,

Again no letter from you this morning.  My day doesn’t start out very well if I have no mail from home, especially from you.  I suppose you must be up to your ears in all sorts of transactions and details.  By the way I am somewhat amused by the sudden interest of B. Nicholls.  You know, I listed the house with him way back last summer when we first decided to list it with other than Sophia.  He was actually the first outside agent to have it.

A few things of interest . . . . the shoes worn by German men have points as narrow as those worn by Italian women.  They even go in for highly styled colors such as beige, gray, green, etc.  [Q]uite unattractive.  On the whole I don’t think it can be said that the Germans have a great sense of chic or style in anything­—clothes, furniture or decorative arts.

In Koblenz there are bottlers for Pepsi Cola, Coca Cola, Canada Dry and a domestic bottler named Ass-Brunnen.  They put up a series of bottled beverages such as orange soda, and they are generally referred to as Ass.  So when you ask for a little Ass in Koblenz, you are apt to get a bottle of soda and a glass—not what you would normally expect in the States.  [Ass is the German for ‘ace’; Ass-Brunnen literally means “ace fountain.”  (This is like the French soft drink Pschitt: it’s named for the sound the bottle makes when it’s opened, but to English-speaking ears, it sounds an awful lot like ‘shit,’ to the amusement of Americans, Brits, and Aussies!)]

I neglected to bring with me the copy of the contract with Girard Trust Corn Exchange Bank of Philadelphia providing for the monthly payments of Doug’s tuition.  The first payment is due this month and since I am not sure of the correct amount I sent a check for what I recall the amount to be and asked that they notify me if it is wrong.  If you should see the envelope from this bank lying around conveniently, please forward it to me.

Speaking of banks, the deposit I made for you of $1,000. before I left was acknowledged to me here—I assume you credited it to your account.  I am sending you the deposit slip for your information.  [It was enclosed with the letter.  $1000 in 1962 would be worth about $8000 today.]

If my timing is correct, you should receive this letter right after you return from visiting Princeton for the weekend.  [I was in boarding school in Princeton, NJ.]  I hope everything is as well with Rick as it appeared to be when I left.  I still have had no letter from him.  Here are copies of the newspaper articles which appeared over the weekend concerning my arrival—how good is your Deutsch.  [The two clippings were enclosed with the letter: “Eugene K***** leitet AH Koblenz,” Rhein-Post (Koblenz) 29 Sept. 1962; “Amerika-Haus hat einen neuen Direktor,” Rhein-Zeitung (Koblenz) 29/30 Sept. 1962.]

By the way, as a result of this article I received a letter yesterday from a German who described an incident which took place a year and half ago in which he was involved in a fight with some American soldiers.  The soldiers were arrested, turned over to the M.P.’s and properly tried and punished.  He claims, however, that he suffered the loss of 400 marks ($100) in various unspecified damages.  He has tried unsuccessfully to get this money and he asks me to help him.  If I don’t help him he threatens to write to the newspapers in the Soviet Zone [i.e., East Germany] and tell them what liars we are in telling of the friendship of Germany and the U.S. and how the NATO agreement is a partnership etc.  At the very end he tells me to please contact his wife, since he is at present in jail for some totally different offense.

I miss you tremendously and I love you even more—

                                                                                    G

P.S. Congratulations on the Kreeger deal.  [I don’t know what this refers to.  My parents did know David Lloyd Kreeger, Washington philanthropist and art collector, but I don’t know into what “deal” they might have entered in 1962.]

*  *  *  *
[Below are translations of the two newspaper articles that covered my dad’s arrival in Koblenz.]

Rhein-Post [Koblenz] Saturday, 29 Sept. 1962: “The Koblenzer Page: Eugene K***** heads A[merika] H[aus] Koblenz: He was introduced yesterday — First post in the diplomatic service.”

koblenz – “I am pleased to be in Koblenz because I know that here the city and the people have a good relationship with the Amerika Haus,” explained Eugene K*****, who has just undertaken the leadership of the Amerika Haus Koblenz and the German-American Library in Trier.

In the next weeks, the new head will make himself familiar with the situation and improve his German language skills somewhat.  On the basis of his personal interests, he will expand the AH program without altering it in principle.  “It won’t be easy for me because my predecessor, Rosinus, did such a good job.” 

Eugene K***** was born in New York, [and] studied at Washington and Lee University in Lexington, Virginia, where he graduated with a Bachelor of Arts degree from the School of Journalism.  Afterwards he worked as a reporter for newspapers in New Jersey and Virginia.  During the war, he served in the American army and was assigned as a captain of artillery in Europe.  In the years from 1946 to 1962, Eugene K***** worked in the American film business in Washington, Baltimore, and Virginia.  At the same time, he operated a radio station in Little Rock, Arkansas, and ran the leading gallery for contemporary art in Washington.

The Amerika Haus in Koblenz—K***** called it “my new adventure”—is his first assignment in the diplomatic service.

Rhein-Zeitung [Koblenz] Saturday/Sunday, 29/30 Sept. 1962: “Amerika-Haus has a new Director: Until now, Mr. Eugene K***** was mainly active in journalism.”

“I hope to be able to continue the good relations that have been established between the people of Koblenz, the local authorities, and the Amerika Haus,” said Mr. Eugene K*****, the new Director of the Koblenz Amerika Haus as he presented himself yesterday to the public.

For the 43-year-old New Yorker who has been named as the successor to former Director Rosinus, who has been transferred to Bonn, the Koblenz position is his first in the diplomatic service of the US.  Mr. K***** was until now active in journalism in the United States.  After journalism studies at Washington and Lee University in Lexington (Virginia), from which he graduated with a Bachelor of Arts degree, he was a reporter for newspapers in New Jersey and Virginia.  During the last war, he served in the US Army and was for some time a captain stationed in Europe.  From 1946 to 1962 Mr. K***** was active in the American film business in Washington, Baltimore, and Virginia.  At the same time, he ran a radio station in Little Rock (Arkansas) and headed the leading gallery for contemporary art in Washington.

Next, the new Director of the Koblenz Amerika Haus awaits his family, with whom he will occupy the house on the Rheinanlagen.  Both his sons are still school-aged and they will attend a school in Germany.  Before he took up his Koblenz post, Mr. K***** took a German-language course for several weeks and hopes to perfect his German language skills here.  Since his interests lie mainly in the area of art, he is considering possibilities, within the framework of the Amerika Haus programs, perhaps to treat such topics.  In addition, the appointment of the new director means that the Amerika Haus will be continued in the same manner as it has up to now, for as you know in the spring a new form of organization was established involving the city, the Federal Government, and the central Rhine economy.  The numerous friends of this [Amerika] Haus will certainly welcome that.

*  *  *  *
[Friday,] Oct. 5, 1962
Sweetheart,

Have you finished your shots?  [We had to get passport immunizations before traveling overseas in those days.]  Please don’t let this go until the very last minute.  It occurred to me last night that I had better remind you about it.  Also, has Joe Mona [handyman and carpenter who worked for my dad’s former company, District Theatres Corp.] picked up my golf bag and refinished it for me.  If you haven’t heard, please call him and remind him about it,  I understand that there is a very lovely golf course at Bad Ems about 20 minutes from here, and I think we will want to take advantage of it.  [Bad Ems is a spa town across the Rhine from Koblenz.  Coincidentally, I went to a German army school there later when I was stationed in Berlin in 1972.]

This morning was really a dilly—not hard or confused, just busy.  I am getting into the schedule of official calls, and I had three of them to make by noon.  One to the head of the local Stadt (city) bank, who is our landlord [I presume Dad means the AH office is leased from the Stadtbank; I think the U.S. Government owned the house we lived in—but I’m not positive]; one to the Regierungspraesident (the head of the regional administration); and the third to the Commanding General of the Army in this area.  [That would be the German army, the Bundeswehr’s Third Corps, headquartered in Koblenz.]  You can imagine what procedures are involved in making an official call on a German lieutenant general at his headquarters—all the formalities and escorts and salutes, everything short of a twenty-one-gun salute and a fanfare of trumpets.  He was quite amiable, spoke good English, and appears very interested in the Amerika Haus and its work.

Yesterday afternoon I was invited for drinks (after work) by an English lady whose husband (also English) runs a rather important factory in this area.  She read in the newspaper of my interest in an art gallery [that would be Gres Gallery in Washington of which my parents were part owners in the late ’50s and early ’60s] and she is an amateur painter and is leaving next week for N.Y.  She asked if I could give her an introduction to any galleries to whom she could show some of her work—guess who I sent her to see.  [I have no idea who the British lady was, but I can only guess that the person Dad sent her to was Beatrice Perry (1921-2011; Mrs. Hart Perry [1918-91]), who’d been the managing partner of Gres and moved to New York City after the gallery dissolved.  (For confirmation of this guess, see Dad’s letter of 16 October.)] 

Over the weekend I shall be able to give the furniture in our house a closer inspection.  The painters have finished now, and we are awaiting the go-ahead from Bonn to have the floors refinished.  Mr. Rosinus called me yesterday from Bonn to say hello and wish me well.  [Gunther Rosinus, Dad’s predecessor in Koblenz, was Cultural Affairs Officer at the Bonn embassy in 1962, responsible for all Amerika Haus programs in Germany.  In 1965, Dad was promoted to that job himself.]  He and his family have just returned this week and are in process of getting settled.  They would like very much to see us both when you arrive here.

No mail from any one today.  Ah well, it’s tough when you’re gone and forgotten too. 

All my best love, all my strongest love, all my existing love,

                                                                                    G
*  *  *  *
[Monday,] Oct. 8, 1962
My dearest,

It’s Monday morning and I am waiting impatiently for the mail to be delivered so that I can absolutely devour the letter or letters that will be coming from you.  In the meantime I will give you some ideas about the  furnishings in the house.

First, as a general statement the furniture is not very attractive.  At best it represents fairly typical modestly priced German stuff, and the use and wear over the last few years have given it a hard time.  I would definitely suggest that you plan to bring over just as much as you can that will seem to fit into the rooms which I sketched for you and will not exceed our weight allowance (allowing for the crating, etc.)

I spent some time in the bedrooms on the second floor and was a bit unhappy and surprised to find that in the master bedroom and guest bedroom which adjoins it at the front of the house there are built in identical headboards for Hollywood beds which cannot be removed from the walls; they even have electrical outlets in them.  They are shaped and sized as follows: [There follows a pencil outline of the bedroom showing the built-in headboards, with measurements indicated.]

The indent that is shown is simply a shelf indentation in the headboard.  The thing that bothers me is how are we going to use our beds in the master bedroom with this thing against the wall.  By the way, it is against the far right-hand wall in the master bedroom as you come in the door, and the far left-hand wall in the guest bedroom as you come in the door.

The mail just arrived and I had to take time out to read it—I had a jackpot.  Two letters from you, one written from Baltimore and postmarked Sept. 30, and the other from Washington marked Oct. 1.  A silly card from Viv [that would be Vivian Rabineau, the wife of the couple who were my folks’ best friends back then, and often my brother and my second parents], and a lovely letter from Rick.  The glow will last all day.  You spent the weekend in Princeton, I guess; and I watched the time over the two day period tracing your progress—now you are on the road, now having lunch, now with Rick, now having dinner, etc.  It made the weekend palatable.  You know, they are the worst times.  The office is closed Saturday and Sunday and having no car and nothing to do I find time hangs very very heavy.  I take long walks (weather permitting) in order to tire me, give me some exercise, and pass the time.  In addition, I read, and am completely absorbed in “The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich” [William L. Shirer’s 1960 history of Nazi Germany].  I find it absolutely fascinating.  This weekend  just passed was a little better.  First I met an American naval lieutenant who is here at a German Army School as an exchange student for a couple of weeks.  He happened to be making a telephone call from the lobby of the French Club, so we struck up a conversation and spent the evening (Sat.) chatting.  He came back at noon on Sunday for lunch as we sat together and had some more conversation.  I suspect I will see him again (misery loves company, you know).  In addition to that, I had a complimentary ticket to the Ballet on Sunday night.  You see, on Friday night we had a lecture on ballet in the U.S.A. (in German) at the A.H.  It was my first public appearance, and I had to make the introductory speech in German.  [See Dad’s letter of 2 October.]  It was a little frightening to stand up before a German audience and address them in German, but it went off all right and the directress of the Ballet and head choreographer, who was present, sent me a ticket for the performance.  [Nearly every German city or large town has at least a municipal theater, ballet, opera, or orchestra, and many have two or more of these.  Koblenz has all of them, and in many of these companies across Europe, American artists come to get their starts since we have so few starter troupes in this country.  Many of these American artists were the subjects for AH demonstrations, American musicians, singers, or dancers showing their skills.]  I went last night and thoroughly enjoyed it.  Obviously it was not “The N.Y. City Center Ballet,” but a lot better than I imagined, and most enjoyable.  I must say, however, that with very few exceptions the German female is not well constructed for ballet purposes.  One of the ballerinas looked more like a Valkyrie than a dancer, and one had a slight resemblance to a Knackwurst tied very loosely in the middle.  None were ungraceful or ungainly.

To get back to the house and furnishings: the master bedroom is painted a light blue and contains the following items of furniture.  All are dark wood.

1 hollywood bed frame 53″ wide (¾ bed I think)
2 chests of drawers
2 bureaus
2 night tables
2 green upholstered chairs (slipper chairs I think)
2 chiffarobes (for hanging clothes)
1 vanity or dressing table
1 odd chest (must have come out of another room, looks like a captain’s chest)

The adjoining dressing room is peach-pink in color and contains no furniture as such.  I suspect that several of the items in the bedroom belong in this room.  If you place both chiffarobes in here, I doubt that your day bed will fit.

The master bath is also the same shade of peach pink above the tile, and where there is no tile, the lower part of the wall is painted light gray.  [Most German homes and offices were painted in light and pastel colors.  When I got to Berlin later, the BOQ’s were painted in the same shades—unless, as I did, you painted them yourself and didn’t let the quartermaster dilute the base pigment with white paint.]

The guest bedroom is light yellow and contains the following:

2 chiffarobes (not matching)
2 hollywood bed frames (singles)
1 small upholstered easy chair (green)
2 night tables

The bathroom adjoining the guest bedroom is the same light blue as the master bedroom.  It has no second color since it is tiled throughout to normal tile height.

The other bedroom facing the back of the house is a pale green color has 1 single bed; 1 chiffarobe; 1 bureau; and one night table.

The downstairs furniture seems to line up as two separate sets of green upholstered nubby living room sets (two sofas, and about four chairs); a large dark wood living room piece which I can’t define.  [We ended up just calling it “the Schrank,” the generic German word for “chest.”]  It isn’t a breakfront and it has no display area.  The dining room is dark wood consisting of a table, a sideboard, a breakfront or china closet, and numerous chairs which have blue leather panels on the seat and back.  No furniture for the breakfast nook.  Haven’t gotten to the den yet.

As I said before, there are no fireplaces in the house, and no shelves for books.  There are two book racks in one of the small bedrooms, but they are like office racks or the unfinished racks that we buy at home and paint.  I suppose they could be repainted and placed in the bar alcove on the first floor.  In short, don’t plan on shipping too many books.  Just enough for our own immediate use.  We do have the use of our own library [meaning, I presume, the AH library, which contained only books on America—many in German—or books by American authors (i.e., no Dickens, Fleming, Shakespeare, Proust, Schiller, Cervantes, and so on!)].

All for now—much much much love,

                                                                                    G
*  *  *  *
Monday afternoon [8 Oct. 1962]
Darling,

Just a short note for an errand to charge you with.  I had a call from the embassy (sounds important, doesn’t it) telling me that I would have to have personal calling cards.  Please order them for me, and bring about half a dozen with you when you come.

The cards should be 2½ x 3½.  They should be engraved in script and read

Eugene Monroe K*****

You might also bring a few of your own cards or Mr. and Mrs. cards, either will do.

In haste but not without much much love and loneliness.

                                                                                    G
*  *  *  *
Tuesday, Oct. 9, 1962
My darling,

Another jackpot this morning.  Two letters from you and one from Rick, the second one from him this week.  Yours are absolutely breathless and left me panting and exhausted after reading.  His was delightful, witty and completely HIM.  [Who, me?  Musta had a ghostwriter.]  I gather he is having a good time.  Have no fear about Doug and algebra; he’ll manage fine and take it in his stride I am sure.  When you can, have school keep us informed of his progress in this one subject.

Now about the house and furniture.  First off, in your letter of Friday, Oct. 5 you mention 8100 lbs. gross weight.  I hope this is not what you’re planning to ship.  It was a bit vague as to whether this was the weight of all the furniture or just what you plan to take.  Remember we are limited to 4000 lbs. to be shipped and the balance for storage.  The first thing that strikes me is that in view of my letter of yesterday in which I discussed the built in headboards in two bedrooms whether it makes sense to bring any beds at all, and also the night table.  I would concentrate, as you mention, on the things for the first floor.  There are plenty of chests and bureaus and other bedroom items, albeit not the most attractive.  I would think the green chest, the provincial chest (is this 450 alone or along with either your or my chest, I didn’t quite understand)[.  I]f it is only about half the 450 lbs. by itself, then I would bring it and the china cabinet, and leave both of our chests home.  I think you are going to need space for storing your china, linens, and crystal.  The cabinet space in the kitchen is just barely adequate for your regular everyday things.  Again, as a general rule, concentrate on furniture for the downstairs, and we’ll make do with the bedroom things.

[What my father was suggesting to my mother was that they deemphasize the appearance of the residential areas of the house, that is, the second floor bedrooms, and focus their attentions on the entertainment and “public” parts of the house.  A large part of my dad’s job, and the part that would concern my mother most, was socializing with and entertaining the local power structure, everything from formal dinners to less formal (there was no such thing as “casual” in those days!) Weinabends and Kaffeeklatsches.  It was more important to my parents that the part of the house which would be visited by Dad’s “clients,” as it were, be presentable and functional than the private parts of the house that only the family would use.  In the end, of course, we learned to adjust to the house and the way things were done in Germany and we had a terrific and successful three years in Koblenz, as I recounted in “An American Teen in Germany.”]

Now about your departure date.  The 26th [of October, I presume] is perfect.  I can meet you in Frankfurt without any difficulty and come right to Koblenz.  My mention of the conference [see the letter of 25 September] was intended for you to arrange to come after it.  I would not be available during those two days.  Check one point.  In your letter you speak of arriving TWA, it sounds from your schedule that this is the same PAA flight I took.  Verify this with Mrs. Lewis.  [I don’t know who Mrs. Lewis was, but I suspect she was someone in the USIA office in D.C. who handled transportation arrangements.]  I hope you did get your shots and everything is complete.

Slight emergency.  Do you think you can find the passport photos we had made, and which I placed with other papers to be shipped with household effects.  If you can, send yours and mine immediately.  I need them for driver’s permits and identifications papers.  [Dad was talking about the international driver’s licenses and the German Ausweiß, a kind of internal passport we all had to carry.]  Otherwise have to wait until things arrive or have new ones made.  No great crisis, just damned thoughtless of me.

Do me a favor.  Write and mail two letters or envelopes at the same time.  Address one as usual (c/o Amer. Cons. Gen. etc.) and the other one direct to me at Amerika Haus, Schlossstrasse 51, Koblenz, Germany (.15 air mail postage).  I am quite sure the latter will save at least one day, and maybe two.  I’m anxious to find out.  [The first address was the APO address which went through the U.S. and army mail systems (for 7¢ domestic airmail postage) but got delivered to the Frankfurt Consulate and then sent by courier to Koblenz.  (Since the office was closed on weekends and American holidays, there’d be no APO mail delivery on Saturdays and holidays.)  The other was the German mail address and would have been delivered directly to Dad’s office by the Bundespost.]

Now that I have a target date for your arrival, the days will go much faster and I will have something definite to which to look forward.

                                                                        Adoringly,
                                                                                    G


[Well, that’s Dad’s second week in Koblenz alone without my mom.  I hope readers plan to return to ROT for part 3 of the series, bringing Dad’s introduction to the town and his new job up the eve of my mom’s arrival at the end of October.  I‘ll be posting the third installment in a few days, and you’ll read about the last week before my mother’s arrival in Germany.]


12 June 2015

Home Alone 1


[As I reported in “An American Teen in Germany, Part 1,” posted on 9 March 2013, my dad became a Foreign Service Officer in June 1962 and was assigned to the directorship of the Amerika Haus in Koblenz, West Germany.  He took up his duties that September, but my mother didn’t join him in Germany until late October, so there was a period of about a month when Dad was in Koblenz alone, overseeing the preparations for the government-supplied house at Rheinanlagen 12 and learning his way around German society and his new job.  He and Mom wrote each other nearly daily, it seems, with Dad giving Mother details about the house, the town, and the culture, as well as his comments on their new circumstances.  Mom kept Dad’s letters—her replies are no longer around—and I came across the stash a few months ago while picking through some of Mom’s files and boxes.  They are a mix of chat, practical information, observations, and professions of his feelings.  I thought it would be interesting to share them.  ~Rick]

Monday night [24 Sept. 1962]
Frankfurt [am Main, W. Ger.]
My dearest,

This is really the very first opportunity I have had to sit down and relate to you the events since I left N.Y.

The flight was uneventful, short, crowded and not unpleasant.  The only real disadvantage is the loss of almost half a night, and it takes several days to recoup the vanished sleep.  We took off from Idlewild [the common name for New York International Airport, now known as John F. Kennedy International Airport] on schedule and shortly after we were airborne they served dinner.  Naturally I could eat nothing.  I read and dozed and we were ready to land in London.  Slightly misty, cool and too early in the day to have to go through the landing procedure (7:45 A.M.).  Downtown to the Westbury where they had a reservation but no room ready.  I went into the restaurant for breakfast and ran smack into Leonard Marks [1916-2006; a communications lawyer who later headed USIA (1965-68), my dad’s agency] who was on his way home from an international conference in Lisbon.  We chatted over a cup of coffee and then parted.  I found that my errands were all within easy walking distance of the hotel so that I had the pleasant opportunity of wandering around the Bond St. section of London.  I called Sue [Hammerson (1914-2014), the wife of a British couple my parents had gotten to know] about ten and she was delighted and surprised.  She insisted I come to the house for lunch, and seeing the interior by daylight did not make it any more attractive.

We spent the whole afternoon including a visit to the Home for the Aged [Lewis W. Hammerson Memorial House] which she has erected in memory of Lew [Lewis Hammerson (1916-58), Sue’s late husband].  It has just been completed and the first occupants have moved in.  We had dinner with her three children including a fiancée about which I will tell you more when I see you.  To bed after dinner and up at 6:30 A.M. to catch the plane to Frankfurt.

The flight is only one hour and like all jet flights has the disadvantage of not being able to see a thing except when either ascending or descending.  The Public Affairs Officer from the Consulate was waiting for me at the airport and had a car from the consulate to take me to my hotel.  He had arranged for me to stay over for a day so that I could be thoroughly briefed here (this is my immediate headquarters [the Koblenz Amerika Haus was under the jurisdiction of the Frankfurt consulate]) before I move on to Bonn [capital of the Federal Republic of Germany and location of the U.S. Embassy] and Koblenz.  We sat down to lunch and spent about 2½ or 3 hours talking.  He asked me to his home for a dinner gathering but allowed me enough time for a nap, a change of clothing and general rehabilitation.  The other guests at dinner were his assistant, a bachelor who lives with his mother whom he squires around and whom everyone refers to as “Mom.”  The Amerika Haus director from Frankfurt and his wife—a fairly new officer (about 4 months)[.  T]he last couple were Mr. & Mrs. Munro Leaf [1905-76]—he is the illustrator and creator of “Ferdinand the Bull” and is doing a tour for U.S.I.A. lecturing on children’s books.  He and his wife were charming and the evening was delightful.

This morning I reported to the Consulate—met the whole staff including the Consul-General.  I went through all the administrative processing and found out that our trunks had arrived and were awaiting instructions for disposition.  I was also told that our home in Koblenz is being repainted.  I arranged for the trunks to be shipped to the Amerika Haus on Friday since I will probably be in Bonn until Thursday evening.

My stay here in Frankfurt has been amazing.  I have not met a single German—except personnel at the consulate all of whom speak English.  I am staying at a hotel owned by the Army and outside of dinner at the Backer’s [John, Dad’s immediate superior at the Consulate, and his wife, Evelyn] last night my meals have been more American than what I get at home.  This town is so Americanized and has so many Americans living here (about 100,000 [coincidentally, the entire population of Koblenz]) that it is possible to never get involved with the natives.  [Frankfurt was, of course, the headquarters of the U.S. Army in Germany and Europe.]  In the dining room tonight I met a chap who has been here for over two years and doesn’t speak a word of German—and he is married to a German girl.  [Dad, of course, did speak German, and once he got to Koblenz, used it extensively as we’ll see.]  Of course, this gives me the great opportunity to save the sightseeing for when I can do it with you.

Tomorrow morning I catch a train at 7:00 A.M. which means I must get up at six.  I think I better get to bed and leave some more telling for my next letter.

                                                                        You know I love you,
                                                                                    G

P.S.  I wrote both boys [that would be my brother and me] from London.

*  *  *  *
Tuesday evening [25 Sept. 1962]
Bonn, Germany
My dearest,

As you can see, my pen has surrendered to the Germans.  [This letter was hand-written in pencil.  Dad’s previous letter switched to pencil ⅔ of the way through when his ballpoint was clearly running out of ink.]  I need a new filler for it. 

[In another, undated note on “Office Memorandum” paper, Dad wrote that his “pen has run dry” and asked Mom to get a refill and “a spare or two” because he can’t get any in Koblenz.  Dad sent her the pen and told her to bring it back with her when she joined him in Germany.  Dad had a silver Cross ballpoint with his initials (which I now have) and I imagine that was the pen that he couldn’t get refills for in Germany.]

After I wrote you last night I went to bed and was up at six this morning to catch a 7:10 train to Bonn.  The train came right down the Rhine through Koblenz, but naturally all I could see [in Koblenz] was the area near the railroad which had the usual appearance of this type of area in any city in the world.

The scenery along the river was magnificent.  Hilltops surmounted by castles or castle ruins; vineyards terraced up impossible slopes to the base of these “schloss” [castle].  [On my first visit to Germany over Christmas that year, my folks brought me from Frankfurt to Koblenz on this same train and the ride along the Rhine—the train goes right past the famed Lorelei—is, indeed, “magnificent”!]  The sun doesn’t manage to clear the mist until well into the morning so my view was rather limited.  This seems to be the big complaint regarding the weather—not enough sunshine.  Apparently the overhanging grey cloudiness can last for weeks without a sight of the sun.

I arrived here at nine and was met by a car and driver.  He stopped at the “guesthouse” to allow me to deposit my bags and we went on to the embassy.  The “guesthouse” is a small apartment building run by and used for embassy people to be put up.

I met most of the U.S.I.A. staff at the Embassy, including the German employees.  At each branch and office I received a briefing as to what they do and how it fits in with my operation.  When I finished up at 5:30 I was exhausted and came back for a nap and a wash.  I am leaving in a few minutes to have a drink at the home of Roger Lyons who is temporarily in charge of U.S.I.A. activities at the embassy.  He is actually number three man but the other two are away until next week.  Tomorrow I will have more of the same, and at this rate I look forward to my arrival at Koblenz simply in order to relax and get some rest.

You might be interested in knowing that there is scheduled a meeting of all Amerika Haus directors in Germany here at Bonn on Oct. 18 & 19.  Take these dates into consideration when planning your trip over.

Obviously I have not had any mail, nor will I have any until I get to Koblenz on Thursday.  Can hardly wait.

                                                                        Adoringly,
                                                                                    G
*  *  *  *
Thursday, Sept. 27, 1962
Darling,

I arrived in Germany this morning and have been here about four hours.  Up to now I have been travelling [sic] in an extension of the United States.  This may seem incredible, but up to this morning I had not met or had anything to do with any Germans other than a customs official, a cab driver, a porter and a dining car waitress.

When I arrived in Frankfurt the PAO [Public Affairs Officer] was there to meet me, as I told you.  He escorted me to my hotel which is an installation run by our military and is as Amuuurican as you can get.  [These are known as Transient Billets and are like bare-bones hotels or guest quarters for official visitors.]  The menu in the small dining room consists of five or six different steaks plus hamburger and an assortment of sandwiches.  You can’t even pay your bill in other than U.S. money; this also applies to the hotel bill.  [This was in the days before credit cards, too.]  On Tuesday morning when I left for Bonn, I did have a German taxi driver, porter and of course had to buy my railroad ticket in German.  When I walked into the dining car shortly after the train left the waitress spotted  me right away and asked for my order in English.  In Bonn the embassy had a car and driver waiting for me and since I spent two days there I had no exposure either to the city or the people.  I might say that all the German employees of both the consulate and the embassy identify themselves with the Americans.  They often use the word “we” meaning we Americans.  This morning I left Bonn in a gray misty drizzle and made the trip to Koblenz (40 minutes on the train) to arrive here in a full rain, no drizzle.  The car met me and took me immediately to the office where I have now met all the staff present and inspected the premises.  In a little while I shall go out and inspect our house.  I have checked into a hotel because five men are painting in the house, and it is expected that as soon as they finish another crew will start scraping and refinishing the floors.  The carpets (or rugs, I don’t know yet what we have) and the drapes are being cleaned, so we should have a bright clean residence by the time you arrive here.  I will give a full description after I have seen the place.

I am staying at The French Club which is a hotel as well as a club and went over at noon to check in and have lunch.  [The former French officers’ club, from when Koblenz was part of the French occupation zone, was renamed the French Club and open to all.]  It’s nothing to get excited about, but is clean, convenient and will serve my purposes nicely.  After lunch I took the opportunity to walk back here [the Amerika Haus office on Schloßstraße], even though it was raining, to get a small impression of downtown Koblenz.  It looks very attractive, the shops and buildings are very nice, there is a large square with a park and fountain [this is probably Görresplatz] and quite a good bit of construction going on.  Apparently this city was badly damaged in the war so that there is a fair amount of modern construction that has taken place, and somewhat altered the traditional appearance of the city.  [Damage from allied bombings and other wartime destruction in World War II was largely cleared in the 1950s, but when Germany entered the Wirtschaftswunder, the economic miracle of the ’60s, reconstruction of the empty lots and abandoned structures began all over the Federal Republic.  Bland, nearly identical in style, new buildings rose everywhere in these years.  Our house in Koblenz, the embassy apartment complex in Bad Godesberg, and my BOQ in Berlin were all part of this phenomenon.]

The people working here [in the Amerika Haus] appear nice and helpful, at first glance.  At each step along the way, Frankfurt and Bonn, I was told of the excellence of the local staff [in Koblenz]; I am sure this will be a great help in getting oriented.

By the way, I haven’t seen a single platzen sie anywhere.  [This was obviously an expression Mom and Dad had for something about the Germans, probably particularly the women, but I can’t recall what it referred to anymore.  It may have been a reference to an image of sexiness from pre-war movie lore (“bombshell”).  (It literally means “burst!”)]  All German women seem to have the knack of looking healthy, quite sexless and utterly lacking in any chic.  Some of the hats and suits look like they must go back to the First World War, if not the Franco-Prussian conflict [which would be 1870!].  Can’t wait for you to get here, hate having all these experiences by myself without you to enjoy them with (what a sentence).

The one thing that disappointed me upon arrival here was that there was no mail.  I was hoping that [while] I was en route there might be a letter or two.  I am sure they will be here by tomorrow or certainly Monday.  The trunks should arrive from Frankfurt tomorrow, and I am having them brought here to the office until it is convenient to move them into the house.

All for now, write more soon.

                                                                        All my love,
                                                                                    Gene

*  *  *  *
                                                                                    Sunday, Sept. 30, 1962
My dearest,

Your very first letter caught up with me on Friday and I have been devouring it regularly since it arrived.  After a whole week of no contact you can imagine how eager I was to hear from you.

Before I make any comments or attempt some impressions I think I’d better tell you about our house.  I know how anxious you must be to know something about it.  I spent all morning there taking measurements and completing the enclosed floor plans.  This was not easy since the place is cluttered up with painters[‘] equipment and all the furniture has been piled into the center of the rooms & covered.  I think I got fairly accurate measurements and at least they will give you an idea of the layout.  I did not measure the third floor as I saw no purpose to it unless you feel it would be helpful.  I have kept a duplicate set of these plans so that you may write me and refer to them if you have more specific questions.

The house is stucco, as are almost all the houses in this area.  [That’s that rapid post-war construction I noted.]  It is on the Rhine and most conveniently and tastefully situated.  From the river there rises a fairly steep embankment which is topped by a crushed stone or gravel footpath.  The embankment continues for a few feet after the footpath and is topped by a sodded area of trees and lawn about 10 feet in width; then comes a broad paved walk which is the Rheinanlagen [Rhine promenade – no vehicle traffic].  [T]he house fronts on this.  The gate which I have indicated opens onto this walk.  The paved path comes along the side of the house to a flight of steps at the top of which is the main entrance.  The door opens into a vestibule which is also the stairwell of the house.  From here you come into a large hall or foyer off which all the rooms open.  Starting on the left a small powder room containing toilet and sink; an open alcove which at present contains a home-made bar.  A large living room with the front wall almost all window area, a pair of French doors to the balcony and a large amount of wall-space—no fire place.  A large dining room somewhat on the long side, a breakfast room and a kitchen with counter space, some cabinets, a refrigerator, two stoves—one gas and one electric, each with 4 burners but small, and a disreputable looking sink.  [The porcelain sink was rust-brown from Koblenz’s iron-laden water.  Our dishes would succumb to the same rust stain soon as well.  Beside being vile-tasting—it wasn’t unhealthy, just nasty—it was as hard as rock.]  The little pantry room has another refrigerator exactly the same size as the one in the kitchen and some home made shelves for canned and box goods storage.  There remains only the den on this floor.

The first floor has wood parquet floors which are badly in need of redoing and a request has gone in for authority to have this done.  The second floor is covered by a solid gray linoleum or plastic which is used commonly in Germany as a floor covering.  It is a permanent installation and appears to be in good condition.

The common practice in Germany is for each sink to have its own small gas hot water heater, so there is one in the kitchen, one in each large bathroom on the second floor, and one for the tubs.  There are none for the ½ baths or powder rooms, so they have no hot water spigots on their sinks.  These heaters are mounted directly above the sink or tub and have spigots into the sink or tub.  The large bathroom on the second floor which is not part of the master suite has a bidet—it is the only one in the house.

The third floor is suitable only for storage and a maid.  The roof slants down and cuts down the size of the two bedrooms, and as I have indicated, there is no bath in the toilet.

Immediately adjacent to the rear of the house is a stone paved terrace, just large enough for the metal furniture on our ground terrace.  We could not use the porch furniture.  I could not see too much of the furniture because of the way it is piled up and covered.  I hope that by later this week I will be able to see it more clearly.  Most of it looked like German modern which means dark wood on very straight lines.  There seemed to be a number of upholstered pieces all in green.

There are no closets in the house.  There are numerous armoires or chiffarobes for hanging clothes.  This also holds true for the first floor. 

The windows are all pairs which are somewhat similar to casements except they open inward and do not operate on a crank, simply on a latch.  [This always made placing anything on a window sill precarious.  When I was in the army in Berlin, my fellow GI’s used to like to call the States “the land of the round doorknobs.  I used to call it “the land of the sash windows”!]  There appear to be rug sized carpets around but I could not tell where they go or what they look like—oh yes, there are definitely no lamps around other than a couple of metal floor lamps.  I did not see a decent kitchen table or any breakfast room furniture.  All innerspring mattresses and they looked pretty good.  I think you should definitely bring the guest room furniture as well as our own bedroom, and the daybed and pieces for the dressing room.  As soon as I can see how the furniture on the first floor sets up I will advise you further.
_____________________________________________________
_______________________________________

So much for the house.  The trunks arrived on Saturday and everything appears in good shape.  I had them delivered to the office until the house is cleared out.  I opened them to remove my clothes and made a casual check without disrupting too much.  There didn’t appear to be anything broken, and everything looked fine.

I held a press conference on Friday morning in order to announce my arrival and meet the local press.  I shall send you a copy of the article when it appears.  [See Dad’s letter dated 4 October.]

I have seen all the stereotyped Germans in the few days since I have been here.  The children in lederhosen, the men in tyrolean green knicker suits and the German officer using a monocle to read the menu.

Most German women wear no make-up and don’t shave their legs.  When a German lady gets dressed a[nd] puts on a hat she looks like she is getting ready to attend a full-dress girl scout jamboree.  All the hats look like they once belonged to men and were discarded.

This French Club, where I am staying is like a small edition of NATO.  There are French and German officers here; a delegation of Italian civilians, for whom every meal becomes a party; a group of Dutch; a couple of English, and this evening an American couple attached to our embassy and here for a few days on business, introduced themselves.  The amazing thing is that the waitress and barmaid converse with all of them.

Enough for now—time for bed.

                                                                        Love in large quantities,
                                                                                    G
*  *  *  *
Tuesday, Oct. 2, 1962
My darling,

The mail has started to flow regularly in this direction.  A letter arrived both yesterday and today.  The one today was written Thursday and postmarked Friday, so I guess we can figure four days for mail to arrive.  I hope that my mail [h]as likewise started to reach you.  I wrote first in Frankfurt, then Bonn, and regularly since I arrived here [in Koblenz] last week.

The press conference which I held on Friday made the paper on Saturday and I am sending you clippings along with translations.  [They were in the letter on 4 October.]  On Friday (Oct. 5) I am presiding at the first lecture given in our auditorium since my arrival.  This is called “Ballet in the U.S.A.,” and is being delivered in German by a former director of the Koblenz municipal theater.  The occasion is the presentation in Koblenz by the local municipal theater of a performance of an American Ballet which we call “Cakewalk” [adapted by the American Ballet Theatre from music by American composer Louis Moreau Gottschalk] but which in German is titled “Die lustigen Schwestern” – translated literally, the lusty or hearty sisters.

My function will be to make some opening remarks and introduce the speaker.  I have written my introduction in English and it has been translated by the staff into German, which is how I will deliver it.  You can see things are moving along.  Tomorrow, Wednesday, I have my official meeting with the Oberbuergermeister [mayor (of a large city)] and on Thursday with the Regierungspraesident [district president], the latter is the head of the district, comprising several counties.  My area of responsibility consists of three such regierungs [Regierungsbezirk – administrative district], and I will have to meet the other two shortly.

The painters have indicated that they will be finished in the house on Wednesday, and if we can get the approval from Bonn, the scraping and refinishing of the floors can begin.  After that I can uncover and inspect the furniture and furnishings and give you an idea of what we have and what it’s like.

Am on the trail of a maid for us.  If it works out I shall hire her as soon as possible and move into the house when it is ready.  The help situation is very tight here and help is scarce and not very good, I am told.  [Germany was in a period of over-employment: there were more jobs than available workers.  Soon, Gastarbeiter, guest workers, were imported from countries like Spain and Portugal—later Turkey and still later the Middle East—to fill jobs for which there were no German workers.]

It certainly sounds like you have been getting plenty of action on the house [in Washington, which was for sale].  I hope this isn’t all too strenuous for you—I really feel quite badly about saddling you with all these unpleasant duties.  [My mother was in Washington alone to contend with both the sale of our house and the packing and shipping or storage of our furniture.  My brother, not yet 14, and I, almost 16, were away at different boarding schools.]

The past two days have been magnificent, which is unusual for the Rhineland [Koblenz is in the German state of Rheinland-Pfalz, or Rhineland-Palatinate].  Sunny, mild and generally delightful.  If it stays this way the wine harvest will benefit, and so will I.  There will be numerous festivals in the late Fall, and during the winter there is Karnival (Mardi Gras to you [also known as Fasching or Fastnacht in other parts of the German-speaking world]) which is a period of unmatched gaiety and dancing for at least a week.  I am told that it is wonderful and everyone in the City participates and enjoys it.  Many parties, much wine drinking, and very little if any business goes on.

I have not yet heard from Rick although I wrote to him twice.  Doug’s first letter arrived yesterday and I think it was a carbon of the one he sent you.  He said his days were quite full and described what took place from the time we left him [at school in Pennsylvania].

I am keeping as busy as possible because otherwise I dwell on missing you and make myself miserable.

                                                                        All my love,
                                                                                    G


[Dad was in Germany just over a week, and the work had already started—even as he was still contending with preparing the house we would all live in and learning his way around.  As you’ll read in part 2 of this letter collection, which I’ll be posting in a few days, this mix of getting right to work on the public diplomacy of his job and acclimating himself to his new life continued.  Please come back to ROT for “Home Alone,” part 2.]

07 June 2015

Some Of That Jazz

by Kirk Woodward

[Once again Kirk Woodward, my friend and a frequent contributor to ROT, comes back to the blog with a new piece of writing.  Returning to one of his strongest interests, music, Kirk here writes about jazz, a form of music in which he first became interested as a young teen.  This time, rather than discuss the form—probably a nearly impossible task for jazz anyway—Kirk’s reminiscing about some of the greats of the form he heard play before they passed from the scene.  This piece is a personal journey, but one on which it’s worth tagging along.  ~Rick]

A friend remarked once that conversations about jazz tend to consist of one person saying a name of a jazz musician, and a second person saying “Wow! Yeah! Great!” There’s some truth in that. Since I was fortunate to be able to see a number of the great figures from the first, or at least the second, generation of jazz giants – nearly all gone now – I’d like to pass on some of what I remember of them, but I’m not sure my descriptions will amount to much more than “Wow!”

I heard there was something called “jazz” in 1963, before I actually heard the music, and I felt I had some sort of responsibility to find out what it was like. Not knowing exactly in what direction to go, I bought a Ray Charles album, Yes Indeed (Atlantic Records, 1958), on June 14, 1963, when I was 15, played it continuously for weeks, and became a fan of Ray Charles forever. The liner notes mentioned some other names as well, like Louis Armstrong and Dizzy Gillespie, so I began to get some idea that jazz had a context.

This process was assisted, a bit later, by a collection of reviews, Such Sweet Thunder (Bobbs-Merrill, 1966), by Whitney Balliett, then the jazz critic for The New Yorker. Through Balliett I came to learn about people like Earl Hines and Duke Ellington (see below) before I had heard them. This isn’t supposed to be possible, since music and the spoken word are so different, but Balliett was able to describe jazz in an intelligible way. You might not have been able to hear actual music from his descriptions, but you would not be surprised at how they played when you finally did.

RAY CHARLES (1930-2004)

My first jazz concert was, naturally enough, a Ray Charles concert – this must have been about 1964, at the Fairgrounds in Louisville, Kentucky. I don’t remember much except that I thought he was terrific. (See? “Wow!”) David “Fathead” Newman (1933-2009), whose character makes a vivid appearance in the movie Ray, was still in Charles’s band at that time, playing lead saxophone, and he played solos like the ones I’d memorized on Yes Indeed. I still think that Newman’s solo work with Charles is magnificent, and I was delighted when the two were reunited in 1977 on Saturday Night Live.

I saw Ray Charles many times after that, up to and including his last concert in New York City. Once during an intermission I talked to a trombonist in his band, Henry Coker (1919-79). I took up almost his whole break asking him questions, which didn’t delight him, and he wasn’t overwhelmed with the honor of playing for Ray either. He spent nearly all this time on the road away from his family, and he said Charles came to just the last few rehearsals before the band went on the road.

Almost every time I saw Charles, he provided some indelible moment. The very greatest was during a sensational concert at Wolf Trap near Washington, D.C., in perhaps 1970. The show had been delayed, and almost cancelled, by rain, which finally stopped – Charles said, “I’ve got connections.” Ray and the band had been in residence at Wolf Trap for nearly a week, and they were feeling at home. They played a long, improvised blues segment – filthy words and scratchy sounds; and the spoken climax on Ray’s song “Understanding” (“I’ll hit her upside the head with an axe – maybe she’ll understand that!” – different from the line on the record) hit such a peak that the audience literally screamed. “He’ll never be better than that,” my friend Steve Johnson said, and maybe Steve was right; but Ray was always remarkable.

Ray’s audience was so used to his routines that once at a sparsely attended (because poorly advertised) concert at Lincoln Center, when he finished “What’d I Say” no one applauded, because they knew, being hard core fans, that he’d be back for one more musical bit.

EARL HINES (1903-83)

My mother told me that Charles’s piano style reminded her of Earl Hines (she didn’t like Ray much otherwise; I argued for him and against Sinatra, a pointless argument if there ever was one), so I went to hear Hines at the Cellar Door in Washington, D.C., probably in 1968 or so. From the back of the room an old, chunky, bald man came in and walked on stage; there he is, old Earl, I thought. Then a tall young fellow with black hair strode to the piano and began to play. That was Hines, of course, the other man being Budd Johnson (1910-84), the saxophonist with whom Hines had recently reteamed. Hines would then have been about 66.

In a long couple of sets that night, I remember being especially dazzled by Hines’s multi-chorus tremolo in his famous song “Boogie Woogie on the St. Louis Blues,” which left the audience gasping (Hines had prodigious piano skills), and by Hines’s shouting, during a number written by a Russian jazz musician, “Play it to 1984!” which, as I recall, I was the only person to laugh at.

In the 1970s, in Manhattan, I was fortunate to be able to take my mother to hear Hines for the first time since she’d been a girl; we stood at the bar at Michael’s Pub while Hines played in the dining room. He walked by us later and we were able to mutter to him how much we admired him.

THELONIOUS MONK (1917-82)

I also saw Thelonious Monk at the Cellar Door in Washington. He didn’t dance during other musicians’ solos, as he was said to do (he can be seen doing it in films), but his extremely quirky sense of humor was in evidence. He opened with a discordant solo “Happy Birthday,” followed by “The Christmas Song” (“Chestnuts roasting on an open fire . . .”) – both for reasons unexplained, since we didn’t know whose birthday it was, and it wasn’t Jesus’ – I mean, it wasn’t Christmas.

At the intermission at this show I talked with the drummer, an unhappy former vibraharp player who had been enlisted for this gig when Monk was short a drummer.  He pointed out that playing the vibes and drums were similar skills. Still, I persisted, it must be hard to play with Monk. He replied, bravely, I thought, “It’s the same four beats to the bar.” However, he didn’t seem happy. Someone told me that a few nights later, Monk abruptly announced to the audience, “Drum solo!” and walked off the stage, leaving the poor guy to fend for himself, figuring, I suppose, that he’d had enough preparation time.

My other memory of Monk at this appearance occurred after the band was packing up to leave. My friend and I were hanging around, and we saw an old, disheveled man, who at that time we might have called a bum, talking to Monk, and Monk staring at him with his baleful sheep’s eyes, giving him his complete attention. As we left, Monk waved the man to a chair and ordered him a drink and was still concentrating intently on the old fellow as we left, never saying a word as the man talked and talked.

Later at the Village Vanguard in Manhattan I saw Monk playing (with his son on drums) in two exuberant sets. In the second, some college kids near me sat in desperate frustration trying to figure out what Monk was playing, until one of them finally shouted, “Sweet Georgia Brown!” At this same show I walked past Monk as he came out of the men’s room and I was going in. He stared at me, balefully.

MJQ (1946-1974; 1981-1994)

Back again at the Cellar Door (or maybe the Byrd’s Nest – and could that be where I heard Hines?) –  it was a lovely room for jazz. The Modern Jazz Quartet (the MJQ)  was known for their creative but decorous jazz; I saw them one night when they swung so hard that the crowd started screaming and stomping.  The MJQ looked shocked, but couldn’t stop rockin’. I wish some people with ideas about how tame they were could have heard them that night.

COLEMAN HAWKINS (1904-69)

From Balliet’s book, and also from an unbelievable, mountainous blues solo on the album Jimmy Witherspoon at Monterey (Hi Fi Jazz, 1959), I came to admire the great tenor saxophonist Coleman Hawkins, and I heard him in person twice, once with Roy Eldridge (1911-89) at a jazz festival near Baltimore, in an afternoon session where he played a memorable “I Can’t Get Started,” and then in Louisville, Kentucky, six months before he died. I told my friend Bob Giammittorio that I felt I should see these people while they were still alive, and Bob drove down to Louisville from Virginia with me for the trip. The scene was a little jazz club down by the Ohio River that I think didn’t stay in business much longer.

Hawkins that night looked like an Old Testament prophet, with full beard and staring eyes. He had dropped his sax at the airport and damaged it, he said; he was obviously in failing health (and only a few months later drank himself to death), and he literally could hardly play during his first set, in addition to which he had a pickup band which somehow had never heard that he liked to play unaccompanied codas, so the leader, thinking he was smarter than this old geezer, kept cutting him off. In the second set, however, Hawkins recovered a little and played a “Yesterdays” that I treasure in memory.

Hawkins had a booming voice, a result of his talking over the noise of big bands for years. At the end of the evening, the crowd (which had never been hostile even when he was futilely blowing air through his mouthpiece) was shouting “Play ‘The Body’!’ Play ‘The Body’!” (meaning “Body and Soul,” the classic Hawkins recording of 1939). Finally Hawkins, who was leaving town after the set, shouted, “I’ll play it tomorrow night!”

I also remember, at this same Louisville date, a scene somewhat similar to the one with the old man and Monk: someone brought up to Hawkins their broken 78 l.p. recording of “Body and Soul,” and he and Hawkins just kept staring at it, shaking their heads.

DUKE ELLINGTON (1899-1974)

In 1966, over my college’s Thanksgiving vacation, I went to New York to hear Duke Ellington and a small band at the old Rainbow Grill (no longer in existence) on the top of 30 Rockefeller Plaza in Manhattan. I must have looked like an absolute rube, but the waiter gave me a table very close to the band, sitting by myself, and let me remain for the second set at no charge. I was in heaven. Since I had obviously come for the music, I suppose he took pity on me. Memories: after lots of rare tunes, a request from someone in the audience to play the Ellington standard “Mood Indigo,” and the trio that begins the song, walking up to the microphone audibly swearing and grumbling about having to play the damn thing again when the evening was going so well . . . Ellington sitting next to my table at intermission, all charm . . . Harry Carney (1910-74), the baritone saxophone player, winking at me as the band finally left – he too had spotted a fan.

I saw Ellington twice more at the Rainbow Grill, but the music was never quite as good, partly because he was playing less new and more party stuff – he always had that urge to as it were dance on the table to entertain the crowd. Better was a full-band appearance in downtown Baltimore at a city festival, when Ellington, realizing that crowd dynamics could be precarious in that situation, played piano through the intermission, getting one musician or another to play with him until the whole band came back. Even better still was an early afternoon appearance for the Newport Jazz Festival in Carnegie Hall. When we walked in, the band was still rehearsing; Ellington, in informal clothes, was working some things out, and he didn’t stop, even with the audience filtering in, until he was satisfied. Then he went offstage, changed, and came out again in his tux to start the formal part of the presentation. I got to hear Duke Ellington rehearse!

MISCELLANY

I heard the composer and pianist Eubie Blake (1887-1983) play outdoors in Exxon Park, near Rockefeller Center in Manhattan, playing in the rain, and irritated when he missed notes because he was afraid people would think he was making mistakes because he was old (he was almost one hundred) and not because the keys were slippery. He had huge hands, huge fingers.

I heard the Preservation Hall Jazz Band on the Staten Island Ferry (and could be dimly seen in a picture on the front page of the New York Times the next day) and mostly remember their antipathy toward the much requested “When The Saints Go Marching In,” which they must have heard in their sleep.

I saw the bandleader and pianist Count Basie (1904-84) only once, at a festival at night in Baltimore, where the Count played one short blues chorus that I swear was the best jazz solo I’ve ever heard; I wish I could remember it. At the same show Monk was introduced as follows: “Some of you will like this man’s music, some of you will hate it” – a Neanderthal announcer. This same festival featured Woody Herman (1913-87), Miles Davis (1926-91) (I remember his playing with his back turned to the audience), and Dizzy Gillespie (1917-93), who basically played his night club act.

I saw Diz a couple of other times, once with a large Latin band, and he always held his own. Rather unbelievably, over the years I also got to see Charles Mingus (1922-79), Ornette Coleman (1930-2015), B. B. King (1925-2015), Benny Goodman (1909-86), Jimmy Smith (1925/28–2005), Billy Eckstine (1914-93), Sarah Vaughn (1924-90), Buddy Rich (1917-87), Max Roach (1924-2007), Dave Brubeck (1920-2012), Teddy Wilson (1912-86) . . . . Of the people I could have seen and didn’t, the one I most regret missing is Louis Armstrong (1901-71). He, and almost everyone else mentioned in this piece, is no longer with us. Heaven must be a swell place to live.

[“If there’s a rock and roll heaven / Well you know they’ve got a hell of a band, band, band”!  And if there’s a jazz heaven . . . well, that joint be rockin’!

[My dad was a jazz aficionado (so was my Uncle Herb, but I didn’t live with him!), so I grew up listening to most of these guys (and the gals, too).  But I never caught the bug—not like Kirk by any stretch.  I heard the Preservation Hall Band—in Preservation Hall in New Orleans back in the mid-70s; I even interviewed Max Roach some years before he died.  But my most memorable jazz experience—possibly not counting just hanging around NOLA’s Vieux Carré, where jazz comes out of every door as soon as the sun goes down—was a concert by one of my dad’s all-time favorite artists: Ella Fitzgerald.  I can’t remember the exact circumstances of the evening—I recall it was a school group, not something I did with my dad, and it must have been in Geneva when I was a high school senior in Switzerland in 1964-65.  I also no longer remember the program, though I know Ella sang all her standards.  I also know she brought down the house, including us callow teens (not to mention the Calvinist Swiss)—that woman knew how to ramp up an audience!  The one song I distinctly remember her singing—and I can still visualize her doing the number—was her unique riff on “A-Tisket, A-Tasket.”  It was her finale, and we demanded an encore as well.  No jazz fan, I—but I’ll never forget that gig!]